By Beatriz O'brien
It is not known exactly when humans domesticated the flax plant. By taming, we mean leaving behind its wild ancestor and starting to cultivate it for various textile purposes. At first, flaxseed, that tall grass that we will later know as flax, was harvested for food, specifically for the high nutritional value of the oil from its seeds.
In 2009, in the Dzudzuana Cavern, located in what is now Georgia, a group of archaeologists discovered the oldest textile fibers woven by people. These could have been made about 30,000 years ago. Although the first works were basketry, in which the fibers were twisted, intertwined and knotted, this primary technology spread over the centuries to other items such as fishing nets and cargo lashings that made it possible to optimize long-distance travel.
Linen belongs to the family of stem fibers along with hemp, jute and ramie. The fibers can measure between 45 centimeters to 1 meter. It is a fiber of low elasticity, but soft to the touch. Linen fabric performs extremely well in hot climates due to its high degree of moisture absorption. In terms of use, linen fabrics get softer over time.
Linen was a divine element in the Egyptian civilization. In the mummification process, understood as preparation for the afterlife, the bodies were wrapped in bandages of this fiber that symbolized a state of purity necessary for their transition. The handling of the tissue was carried out meticulously by priests with extremely delicate, complex and neat results at the same time.
On the banks of the Nile, the Egyptians understood the benefits of growing flax within the climate they inhabited. Its production was extended through all social classes and used as an exchange good with high commercial and social value. The importance of Egypt in handling flax is such that they remained the most important producers of this fiber from ancient times until the 19th century when Europeans began to work it industrially.
Linen weaving maintained its importance throughout the ancient world, through the Middle Ages, and into the centuries that followed. In Europe, along with wool, linen was the most worked and used fiber until well into the 20th century. Belgium was famous for the quality of such textiles and around 1800 the Irish managed to produce and export world-renowned linen cloth.
The first step consists of harvesting the linseed silver from the roots. In this way, the use of fiber from the entire stem is maximized. The fiber is then left to dry. Next, retting takes place, which involves leaving the fibers soaking or fermenting where the bacteria destroy the spongy part of the stem, clearing the fibers. To achieve this goal, the plants must be soaked for a specific time to achieve optimal results, without completely disintegrating. This stage of the procedure expels a characteristic "rotten" odor that is strong and unpleasant. Once the plant is out of the water, it is allowed to dry again in order to separate the bark. Lastly comes what is known as bristle, in which the flax is beaten and combed to leave only the longest fibers ready for spinning and finally weaving.
Flax has been cultivated in Chile since the Colony. First, in an artisan way and entering the 20th century in an industrial way. Linens La Unión will always be remembered for its quality. Linen was one of the favorite textiles in national homes because it is durable over time and provides warm tones. We speak in the past tense since, at present, linen, like most natural fibers except cotton, is used very little and is considered a luxury fiber.
Located in the Los Ríos region, the city of La Unión was, for nearly seven decades, the manufacturing epicenter of a local textile economy. Flax was grown in the area through a system known as "seed loans" in which the factory delivered the seeds to the peasants, they cultivated, harvested and dried the plant to take it to different collection centers. The tow is fermented and bristles before being sent to the city to be spun and woven. A whole system of local economy from what today could be called from the countryside to your clothes , occurred within the same territory, in the hands of peasants and workers.
How sustainable is linen?
Let's start with the fact that flax is of plant origin. The environmental impact of natural fibers is greater than that of chemical fibers or those made by people during the production process, especially in cultivation that requires water and tracts of land. However, it is a plant that does not need large amounts of water, pesticides or specific soils to grow. Nor does it require dyeing, its natural color is widely accepted due to the association of linen with light brown tones, from ivory to greener tones. One of its main characteristics is that it is extremely durable. It resists exposure to the sun very well, which is why it can be used in awnings and curtains.
Linen is a biodegradable and hypoallergenic fiber. Today a luxury of few, in the past linen was used by peasants and pharaohs alike. The introduction and massification of synthetic fibers in the textile industry from the 1940s gradually left this beautiful fiber forgotten, along with the rest of the fibers of natural origin with the exception of cotton. Unlike synthetics, the wear-and-dispose stage of natural fibers can be low-impact. Much of this difference is due to the care we give to our garments and how we make them last as long as possible.
