Five Chilean brands in which Nashion It places all its chips.

By Luis Miranda

Some time ago I had a website that -modest part- managed to display several new names in local fashion. Many designers and brands passed through its notes and contents that, at that time, sounded timidly -some did not even sound-, and that today are consolidated as the labels that constitute the backbone of Chilean fashion. 

Since my time at VisteLaCalle, I considered that it was my obligation as a content editor to give space and showcase to local brands, those that did not appear (and do not appear) in the big magazines and media that put (and do put) their commercial commitments before their exercises. editorials. From VLC and later from ModaCL, I risked it to show the news, the latest in Chilean fashion, to those young labels that refreshed the local fashion-system, pushing its limits and shaping its aesthetics.

For almost two years, my main occupation is not in fashion, but in the renewable energy industry. In this itinerary of change and between the pandemic, creative exhaustion and new interests, I was losing the context of new Chilean fashion proposals, so my first exercise to complete this article for Nashion It was googling. It was not surprising that the results were scarce and that VisteLaCalle was the platform that most highlighted the new generations of local brands, in the pen of Andrea Martínez, its chief editor. Then I turned to my current fashion acquaintances for new name recommendations. The only requirement was that they had no more than three years as a brand. I came across several proposals that I already knew, but also with a handful of creatives that I had not heard of. It was gratifying to find so many labels with already well-defined aesthetics, in some cases, and with styles that were beginning to take shape, in others; with young people who print on their clothes not only patterns, motifs and their logo, but also speeches that, although novices, are innovators and catalysts for what we know as Chilean fashion.

It was hard to pick just a few, but that's what the job of a content editor is all about at the end of the day. Here is a selection of the brands that I believe will occupy an important place in fashion conversations, in the closet of local fashion regulars and in our Chilean fashion-system. 

ENIGMA ( @enigmaestudio_cl )

Enigma is one of those labels that doesn't need paraphernalia, loudspeakers and excesses to stand out. The thing about this brand, which proudly displays the "Made in Chile" on its Instagram account, is to create timeless, quality and highly functional pieces. The brand was born from the interest of Camila Espinoza and Isidora Ruiz-Tagle, the brains behind Enigma, to create locally, exalting the values ​​of slow fashion. “We wanted to achieve a local proposal that would promote fair trade in national fashion, based on slow fashion and working with collections with limited stock. We wanted to create original and quality design”, they point out. And they succeed in spades. 

Asked about the aesthetics they want to imprint on their brand, they answered without hesitation: “The aesthetics of our brand is governed by a fundamental pillar: the concept of the powerful woman, the one who works every day to fulfill her dreams. For this reason, we seek that our clothing offer adapts to the different contexts of use of our users, seeking that with an Enigma garment she feels incredible and the best version of herself”. 

This results in garments that -although timeless- reveal the fascination of their designers with the fashion of the 60s and 70s, with stylistic nods to that era through their design. 

“For us, the fact that a product has the Made in Chile seal tells a story, has a story, a name and therefore a special value, which makes an Enigma garment unique. It is the story of the rescue of a devalued and neglected item, it is the effort to promote local talent and it is to create based on the principles of fair trade, knowing who is behind each of our garments. As a brand we produce small and limited quantities of stock, thus valuing the exclusivity of the design as well as the quality of having a garment made by hand and locally. By choosing products made in Chile, we strengthen employment, the local economy, national production and our own, original and exclusive design”. Isidora and Camila have everything very clear and we hope that this clarity will lead them to consolidate their proposal. 

PAGANA ( @paganacl )

The creators of Pagana, Isidora Azolas and Sofía Lillo, define themselves as a “fashion social entrepreneurship led by women”. Although its flagship product -jeans in different models- is relatively simple, it is the upcycling work behind each piece that is complex, attractive and remarkable about this brand. They produce all their jean models based on the upcylcing technique, that is, by rescuing old denim pieces that, if it were not for Pagana's work, would end up in the trash and increase the volume of clothing cemeteries, so in vogue these days. 

The idea of ​​creating this venture was born while its partners were studying a Master's degree in innovation and entrepreneurship. “We didn't want to do another traditional business focused only on economics, but to be agents of change and generate a significant impact on a segment of the population,” Camila and Sofía tell us. "In this research process, we detected worrying figures in the fashion industry and we wanted to take the circular economy as a fundamental axis when thinking about a job proposal for our collaborators." The brand works with women at social risk, who are mothers and housewives. Pagana offers them flexible work close to their homes. The result is easy garments, suitable for any type of body and that stand out for their simplicity and authenticity. 

Beyond the purely aesthetic, this type of business committed to the social and cultural environment and the development of communities, are the business models that will succeed in the future. In an industry full of egos, bad practices and pettiness, Pagana's brand philosophy enchants us and captivates its clients. “From the economic and social perspective, we believe that it is essential to work from fair trade to promote the talent of the wonderful women who are part of our community. Specifically, we dedicate 22.5% of the sales price of our products to finance your labor. 

POPPY SEED ( @poppyseedchile )

Of all the brands that we mention in this note, Poppy Seed is the one with the least presence on Instagram. Few followers, little frequency of posts, but a lot of color, variety and accessories.
"Since I was very young, I have wanted to make a brand that offers a positive message and that contributes to people's self-esteem," says its creator. The truth is that it does. Its pastel-colored IG, with messages like “You're so Golden” or “Choose Happy” manage to convey the brand's mood. 

Its aesthetic is absolutely eclectic, there is something for absolutely all tastes and occasions. Poppy Seed accessories can be worn at a wedding, in the office or on a daily basis, without any problems. They are colourful, different and classic at the same time. If Serena van der Woodsen and Blair Waldorf had known about their headbands and hair bands, they would surely have chosen them for their Gossip Girl parties. 

For Poppy Seed, the local label is also very relevant in the context of its business model: "I think it is very important to focus on what is done in Chile, because many times people believe that only abroad can they find cool things or trend when the truth is that Chile is growing a lot in the world of fashion and there is a lot to offer ”, he closes. 

CHAIA ( @chaia_oficial )

In synthetic: luxury basics. 

Like some of the other brands that we have presented in this article, Chaia was born after an academic experience that its creator, Paula, attended. “CHAIA's idea arises from the need to introduce a new consumption system where the value of aesthetics and sustainability come together. After a Diploma in fashion and consultancies, this brand was created in 2019”. 

Chaia uses the textile remnants of the high-end industry to produce her garments, which have a bohemian air, appeal to a woman eager for travel and the new and who mixes textures, silhouettes and materials very well. The range is wide: from a basic t-shirt to an elegant dress, going through the perfect pants and animal print. The grace of the brand is that it balances all those references to produce a mixture that is elegant without pretension, defiant but understated. 

Regarding the value she places on producing locally, Paula points out: “we always wanted to have our own workshop, generate local work, rescue the trade of seamstresses, cutters and model makers. We are a team that deeply believes in the collaboration and virtuosity of each other.

Attention to detail and tailoring is a principle of the brand. “As a designer, it is important to me to be in the process of each garment every day, from designing versatile models, searching for discarded materials, fit tests and finishes, the sale and purchase experience of our customers, all this with in order to create a CHAIA closet that is as durable and sustainable as possible and made in Chile”.

SNOWS MARIN ( @nievesmarin )

Nieves Marin is the reversioned china dress, it's nostalgic, it's flowers, it's a retro vibe, it's volume, it's Victorian, and above all remarkable. Despite how maximalist her offer is at times, the designer Nieves Marin knows how to dose. His work is editorial and commercial in equal parts. Her clothes are what we demand to see in magazines, but also that piece that we want in our closet. 

His repertoire seems inspired by global pop culture, but also by local imagery. This balanced combination of various factors makes it a proposal with commercial projection and artistic vocation at the same time. 

Although Nieves has been doing fashion for more than 3 years, her brand was on standby while she investigated administration and only a few years ago she decided to dedicate herself full time to design. Everything has its time, but personally I would have liked Nieves to dedicate himself to fashion earlier. His work has too much merit to have been hidden for so long.